If I insert page X of Y as auto-text in the page footer, it would ordinarily display page 1 of 10, page 2 of 12, etc.  Now, the footer shows Page { PAGE } of { NUMPAGES }.  How can I fix this?  I can’t tell how many pages without counting them or printing the document.

I found the following answer on the internet.  It really helped.  This is posted from AskMetaFilter dot com.

What’s happened is that you have (perhaps through an unconcious / unfortunate string of keystrokes, doesn’t matter) set your Field Codes so they show, instead of what’s in them.
I’m assuming that your page numbers are in either the Header or Footer of the doc, so first:
1. On the View menu, click Header and Footer
2. You should see a little tool bar appear in the middle of your document – the Header / Footer tool bar. Click the page with the two boxes on it (one at the top, one at the bottom) – that will toggle you between the header and the footer.
3. Click in the {PAGE} thing, wherever it is (header or footer).
4. Right-click and select Toggle Field Codes. That should let you see what’s in the field code, instead of the code itself.